Getting the Hang of Cruising

Barra de Navidad, Jalisco/Colima, Mexico
January 29, 2010

I think the fact that we just hung out on our anchor in the Barra Lagoon for 9 days and didn't even bat an eye means that we might be getting the hang of this cruising thing.  I have always had a hard time imagining long stretches at anchor in the same place, but it didn't seem to a problem.

Sunset in Barra de Navidad                        Austin gets a picture of the rest of us              Sunlight through the waves

The provisioning was easy in Barra.  One of the hotels (the Sands) has a bulkhead where they welcome cruisers to tie up their dinghies.  They also have internet and really good cheap food.  From there it is an easy walk to tiendas (little stores), lavendrias (laundries), feraterias (little hardware stores) and the bus.  There is a beach strip with lots of restaurants, though we only tried a couple because we try to stay within our budget by not eating out.  We did spurge a couple of mornings on the "French Baker" who delivers fresh pastries to the boats in the anchorage from his panga every morning before he goes surfing (sometimes with our friends on Delos)!  We also went out with the adults for a night on the town to listen to some jazz and classic rock.

 Dinghy Parking at the Sands 

Grand Hotel Resort

Brad and I went exploring to a town on the other end of the bay called Melaque while the boys played on their friend, Josh's boat for the afternoon.  We took the bus to the near edge of town and walked to the far end on the beach.  We stopped at a beach bar that had the best pina coladas that I have ever had.  They were more like a milkshake with rum (it was even served in an old fashioned milkshake glass).  At the end of the beach, there was a really nice promenade/sea wall that swung around to protecting point.  We never got the story, but the promenade was well built, but seemed sort of abandoned.  At it's beginning (after the trailer park on the edge of town), there was a dilapidated palapa restaurant or bar situated up on top of a big rock.  At one time, there was power and water to it and it had a cool curving stairway up to it.  Now the roof has fallen in and it is inaccessible.  A little farther down the way was a small ampitheatre where people could listen to music or what-not with the bay as the backdrop.  There was even a lookout at the end of the promenade.  We climbed down from it to the beach and checked out the fishermen's shrine which was on an isolated rock with a rusting steel bridge out to it.

 Melaque (end of town to the point)
 

Besides all this activity in Barra, we also had the good fortune to be hosted for a couple of afternoons at the big resort's pool by other cruisers who were staying in the marina.  It was a good thing, because we couldn't swim in the water of the lagoon as it was just too icky.  One the boats in the marina, Oso Blanco, hails from Minnesota and threw a football bash to root on the Vikings in the playoffs.  The overtime was exciting, but we were all bummed by the outcome.  However, it was fun to do something sooooo American!
We are heading to Zihuatanejo currently and will probably stop in Manzanillo and maybe even a couple of spots along the way.

Aquarium, Beach and Jungle

Tenacatita, Jalisco, Mexico
January 19, 2010

We have been in Tenacatita for the last couple of days. On our way into the inner bay, we stopped for a couple of hours at the "Aquarium" for a snorkel. We anchored along side TOTEM and took their dinghy and our kayak to the rocks known for lots of fish and great snorkeling. Everyone was in the water with masks and fins including Siobhan (5) and Mairen (7) who have just started snorkeling along with everyone else. We saw tons of great fish and while Behan and I were getting a bit of exercise swimming back to the anchored boats, she and the boys (Bryce, Austin and Niall) who were in the kayak got a good look at a spotted eagle ray. Before evening set in, we pulled anchors and motored around the corner to the inner bay.

You asked for more pictures . . . . here they are!  We are trying out our new waterproof camera:

 

From the anchorage, we were spotted on our approach to anchor by Mulan. But as seems to always be the case, they were getting ready to leave just as we pulled in. There was time for a beer and catching up with them - we really haven't seen them since my birthday party in La Paz. It is too bad they left, because we spent the entire next afternoon on the beach with the other families who have kids. Six families total including the crews of Sabbatical, Ohana, Oso Blanco and Evergreen played in the waves all after afternoon. The kids all slept well last night.

Kids at the Beach Day

The adult part of the kid beach afternoon

Today we went on the legendary "jungle tour" - unlike San Blas, we did this one in our own dingy. After winding through the mangroves for about an hour, we ended up in a lagoon that is just behind the beach town of Tenacatita (which is actually located in the outer anchorage where we had been snorkeling at the "aquarium"). There was a great tienda with the best oranges I have seen in weeks, great Washington Anjou pears and Granny Smith apples. You'd think that all that imported fruit would have cost me an arm and a leg, but I really stocked up and still spent less than $10 American. My frugal side loves shopping in the little tiendas here even though you never know what you are going to able to get. Cravings for hamburgers and french fries were satisfied at one of the beach bars and then it was a quick trip back out through the mangrove to the boat (we were headed out on the outgoing tide so that we could still make it across the estuary's sand bar under motor). We have pulled our anchor and are now en route around a corner and into Barra de Navidad's lagoon where we plan to spend the next few days.

Before we headed into the estuary, the Gifford family spots wildlife . . . . . . . . . . .  a huge spotted eagle ray!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Baker Family up the estuary spotted a baby cocodrillo (crocodile) basking in the sun and Sally-light-foot crabs in mangroves

Brad has really been enjoying this part of our trip because this is the area where he got to spend a few days with the Giffords on Totem last February on a business trip.

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Same Bat-time . . . . . . . .

Barra de Navidad, Jalisco, Mexico

January 23, 2010

Science Friday (we are Ira Flatow inspired) may be an addition to our curriculum as its first installment, Bat Day, was a screeching success.  I can’t take any credit for this one, but I can so glad that we had the chance to go along for the ride.  Thank you, Oso Blanco! 

We were invited to head into the marina to the boat Oso Blanco where Ann had ready for us an entire lesson on bats.  There were eight “students” between the ages of 4 years old and 11 and a half.  The kids colored bat pictures, then we learned some bat facts by acting them (a resemblance to charades could be imagined).  At the tail end of a “Stellaluna” video, we watched a bat expert went over a few more bats facts and myths in a very kid friendly way.  Finally, it was time for the field trip to the other side of the marina where bats “hung out” in an abandoned building.  Luckily, we had some dads with us who were more than willing to go on a bat hunt.  We found bats immediately and the kids were thrilled.  They checked out a bunch of the rooms and found more bats.  With their bat radar on high alert, we then checked out the amphitheater next door just for the fun of it.  Sure enough, those kids even spotted a small cluster of bats holed up in the corner.

So it was a great afternoon, the kids had fun and they probably even learned something!

 

Aquarium, Beach and Jungle

Tenacatita, Jalisco, Mexico
January 19, 2010

We have been in Tenacatita for the last couple of days. On our way into the inner bay, we stopped for a couple of hours at the "Aquarium" for a snorkel. We anchored along side TOTEM and took their dinghy and our kayak to the rocks known for lots of fish and great snorkeling. Everyone was in the water with masks and fins including Siobhan (5) and Mairen (7) who have just started snorkeling along with everyone else. We saw tons of great fish and while Behan and I were getting a bit of exercise swimming back to the anchored boats, she and the boys (Bryce, Austin and Niall) who were in the kayak got a good look at a spotted eagle ray. Before evening set in, we pulled anchors and motored around the corner to the inner bay.
From the anchorage, we were spotted on our approach by Mulan, but as seems to be the case, they were getting ready to leave just as we pulled in. There was time for a beer and catching up with them - we really haven't seen them since my birthday party in La Paz. It is too bad they left, because we spent the entire next afternoon on the beach with the other families who have kids. Six families total including the crews of Sabbatical, Ohana, Oso Blanco and Evergreen played in the waves all after afternoon. The kids all slept well last night.
Today we went on the legendary "jungle tour" - unlike San Blas, we did this one in our own dingy. After winding through the mangroves for about an hour, we ended up in a lagoon that is just behind the beach town of Tenacatita (which is actually located in the outer anchorage where we had been snorkeling at the "aquarium"). There was a great tienda with the best oranges I have seen in weeks, great Washington Anjou pears and Granny Smith apples. You'd think that all that imported fruit would have cost me an arm and a leg, but I really stocked up and still spent less than $10 American. My frugal side loves shopping in the little tiendas here even though you never know what you are going to able to get. Cravings for hamburgers and french fries were satisfied and then it was a quick trip back out through the mangrove to the boat (we were headed out on the outgoing tide so that we could still make it across the estuary's sand bar under motor). We have pulled our anchor and are now en route around a corner and into Barra de Navidad's lagoon where we plan to spend the next few days.
Brad has really been enjoying this part of our trip because this is the area where he got to spend a few days with the Giffords on Totem last February on a business trip.

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Shipwreck

Chamela Anchorage, Jalisco, Mexico
January 17, 2010

It wasn't a "ship" wreck more like a panga wreck (pangas are the ubiquitous Mexican fishing/work boat that are everywhere here). As durable and seaworthy as these boats seem, they evidently sink every once in awhile. We were getting ready to pull our anchor in order to check out a supposedly great snorkel spot behind some islands on the other side of the bay and all of the sudden the windlass loaded up and the bow dipped. Totem continued to pull their anchor and headed off towards the islands (it's always a race). We tried running the boat forwards and backwards to try and dislodge the chain from whatever it was caught on and when that didn't work, Brad decided to put on his mask and snorkel and see if he could see what we were suck on. That's when we found out that our anchor chain was wrapped completely around and over a submerged panga. After a couple of tries, we were able to let out more chain and unwind ourselves. The whole time we had a friends' boat standing by in the anchorage in case we needed their assistance. Meanwhile, Totem reached the snorkel spot and found that the swell would have made anchoring their questionable, so they had decided to return. We pulled up the anchor and found a new spot, while Totem re-anchored in their former spot. We all agreed that it was time for siestas (though the boys ended up swimming off Totem for awhile). We were just glad to be swinging freely far from the "shipwreck"!

Pangas on shore in the Chamela Anchorage

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Squall!!!!

Chamela Anchorage, Jalisco, Mexico

January 15, 2010

Rainbow as the squall approaches the anchorage

Rain is big news for us here in Mexico. We are no longer in Banderas Bay where numerous people told us repeatedly that it doesn’t rain in December (yet we saw 5 days of rain). South of Cabo Corrientes where we are now, still has pretty nice weather but it is much more influenced by the Pacific Ocean.

This morning, Brad had his coffee in the cockpit noting puffy cumulous clouds to the west. They seemed to be coming ashore to the north of us a couple of hours later. However, the land around Chamela (like in Puget Sound) has mountains that seem to also affect the weather patterns.

We spent the morning watching the clouds build against the mountains and then pour down a small valley north of Chamela and right into our anchorage. No exciting pyrotechnics (thank goodness – being on a boat with a mast that sticks up 65 feet in the air) but the leading edge of the squall was characteristically a downpour.

About 20 minutes before the rain hit us, we got a nice rainbow over Chamela and after the hard rain, the boat has a couple of weeks worth of sand and salt washed off of it!

Back to Wandering

Sunset at Punta de Mita

Chamela Anchorage, Jalisco, Mexico
January 13, 2010

After a little over a month in Banderas Bay, we have resumed our wanderings. The last week on the anchor in La Cruz saw us getting our outboard problems resolved with a new used outboard. Much to the boys' delight, this engine is a 15hp and we can now plane with all four of us in the dinghy. We were also able to get the shaft repaired on the old 8hp outboard, so we have that one as a spare. Besides the usual provisioning and smaller projects, we celebrated Austin's 9th birthday with a slumber party that included pizza, cupcakes and a movie.
We spent a couple of rolly nights at Punta de Mita waiting for the weird weather pattern to sort itself out. The uncharacteristic rain is only part of the weird weather that this part of Mexico has been experiencing. Banderas Bay's usual like-clock work afternoon winds have been anything but usual. Some of the weekly evening races and weekenders have been canceled because there is just no wind on the horizon. They call it a "Pineapple Express", but I am not sure if it is related to the weather phenomenon of the same name back home. Anyway, we were lucky and the weather sorted itself out earlier than usual.
Our point of concern between Punta de Mita and Chamela - about 80 miles - was Cabo Corrientes where currents, wind and swell can combine to make a passage interesting. Things looked good for Tuesday, so we decided to head out at 4:00am to ensure that we would reach Chamela and be anchored before dark. I am happy to report that the trip was completely uneventful, although the wind was mostly too light for sailing. The highlights included, dolphins checking us out, turtle sightings, manta rays sunning themselves and jumping, and most exciting news is that Totem broke the mahi-mahi curse and caught us all dinner. Jamie would be upset if I didn't mention at this juncture that said dinner fish was 42 inches long!!! It has been over a month since I have had fresh fish and it tasted sooooo good.
Today is a beach day for us all. It has been awhile since we have been somewhere that we could actually get to the beach in the dinghies!

Whales between the boats and shore

Really cool manger scene in the village

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Zipline!

Zip Line Adventure
South of Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico
January 3, 2010

For Christmas our friends Ron and CJ offered to take us to do a Canopy tour.. Now most of you might think this is some sort of eco tour where you explore the rain forest canopy. Well……what it really is, is an adventure tour involving Heights and speed! PJ and I had done a similar tour with Ron when we came to visit here in PV on our 10th anniversary some 6 or 7 years ago. PJ (who really isn't fond of heights) decided she would stay with Capaz, while Jamie decided to stay with Totem to get some projects done. The girls on Totem weren't old enough to go so that left Behan, Niall, Bryce, Austin and myself to go on this adventure. Ron's very good friend, Mike Spear, is also down visiting, so he came along with host Ron as well.

Ron picked up the gang at 7:45am and we crammed into the car and headed for Nuevo Vallarta to the Vallarta Adventure tour company headquarters. You see, a canapy tour is typically a joy ride. Several "zip" lines are strung over long distances and heights. The "zipper" dons a climbing harness and attach themselves to a pully that allows the rider to zip across the line at great speed. Given this I didn't expect the adventure to really start until we reached the zip lines themselves. Boy was I wrong. The adventure started when we arrived at Vallarta Adventures.

Vallarta adventures is a very large operation running many different tours each day. Included in what you can do there is swimming with dolphins. When we arrived a half hour early, we went to see the dolphins. They have a very large pool with 6 dolphins in it. We arrived before the public swim started and had a chance to see the dolphins just goofing off. The pool had several basketballs a fender and a large foam pad in it. The dolphins loved playing with this stuff. They would push the foam pad up on shore and then jump up onto it to hang out and look around. They would also hit the balls with their snout. For a while one of the dolphins played a round of catch with one of the staff. It was fun to watch.

At 9am the first leg of our adventure began. We boarded a 40' rib "dinghy". No really it was just like our dinghy only 4 times as long, it sat 35 people, had 400 horse power and could go 60 mph. We put on those silly looking orange life jackets that say "yes I am a tourist" and rocketed across the bay on a very smooth ride.

The second leg of the adventure began at a beautiful well protected cove where we transferred to an open air army type transport trucks for a ride up into the mountains.

Once we arrived at the base camp, our tour guide team geared us up, ran us through the ins and out of riding a zip line and generally whipped us up. They did the usual are you going to have fun? I didn't hear you, you can do better than that routine, so we would shout louder. I can't say enough how good this team was. We had I believe 6 guides to get us through the tour.

After donning the gear and doing the pep rally we headed to the next leg of our adventure, the Mule Ride. I've ridden horses but never a mule. The kids had a ball. It was fun to watch Bryce Niall and Austin controlling their animals up the steep and often treacherous trail. Heck I had a ball. On the ride up you could take a moment to look around at the lush jungle conditions we were traveling through. There were many interesting plants to look, flower, hanging vines etc.

After the Mules we hiked another kilometer or so to the summit and the real reason for the adventure, zipping. Niall was the first to go as we all watched him fly off into the distance. If you haven't done this I highly recommend it. We wound our way through the canopy. I lost count of how many lines we rode, but it was many. We also did some repelling. I was the first to go this time around. The repel was easily a good 50' down the dry part of a waterfall. It's a little dicey as you hang out over the abyss but I quickly got the hang of things and repelled down. I even bounced out a little while lowering myself, nothing like the guides, mind you, who made the whole repel in 3 bounces!

We did another repel which involved no cliff, called a free repel. We also rode a zip line straight into a pool of water and capped off the canopy tour with side by side zip lines that allowed you to race. I raced Austin. The Guides gave him a head start and I just couldn't catch up.

During the trip I snuck a few photos with our new waterproof camera. We weren't supposed to have cameras, because they wanted you to purchase the photos taken by the guides during the tour.

On our way back down the mountains in the truck we stopped at a Tequila distillery for some tequila tasting, very good and smooth tequila, also very expensive. So given that we are on a cruiser budget I decided to pass on purchasing any booze. I did learn a bit more about how tequila is made. Did you know that no yeast is added when making tequila? The natural yeast in the agave plant does the trick.

This trip was definitely a highlight of our stay here in PV and we owe a big thanks to Ron and CJ for including us on this trip.

Brad

The zip liners Mike, Ron, Austin, Brad

Niall, Bryce, and Behan

Mike and Bryce repelling

Austin and Mike zipping together

Niall, Bryce and Austin

Austin on the trail

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